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All information gathered first-hand, since 1995

Popular café terraces on Saint Guilhem

The main village square contains some café terrace tables and open space, surrounding a huge Plane tree (1865, 6 m diameter), with the Abbey along one side of the square. In addition to the café-restaurants, a multitude of souvenir/gift shops surround the square.

Vaulted passage steps leading from the

From the main square, Place de la Liberté, you access the village streets by climbing the stairs that go up beneath the arcade on the north side of the square.

Popular café terraces on Saint Guilhem

Saint Guilhem-le-Désert village stretched out in a long crescent, following the line of the little Verdus river that flows steeply down to the Hérault. The village is pretty much a single street, climbing up from the river-side main road to the top of the village up past the main square.

This main street, and a couple of short, parallel side streets, is picturesque, but lined with "art" boutiques offering paintings, pottery and other tourist-oriented objects. We found it to be very much like the center of St Paul-de-Vence in the Alpes-Maritimes: too cute but definitely to be visited at least once.

The single, long street through the village has several names, from top to bottom: Rue du Planol, Rue Chapelle des Pénitents, Rue de la Descent du Portal and Rue de la Fontaine du Portal.


All parking is pay only (we paid 4 euros for the morning), either in the village or along the main road beside the river. This is a pretty chaotic place during the summer, so an early arrival is your best bet to reduce to pain. For village parking, turn off the main road that parallels the gorge, and follow the road up to the village, leading directly to the parking area. The parking area directly beside the village center is large and shady, and has some picnic areas as well.

The Abbaye de Gellone on the

St Guilhem-le-Désert Abbey

The entrance to the St Guilhem-le-Désert Abbey is in the main square of the village, through the arched doorway at the bottom of the tower (our photo).

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History of Saint Guilhem-le-Désert

The village dates back to at least the year 804, when Guillaume d'Aquitaine (Guilhèm in langue d'oc), Count of Toulouse and Duke d'Aquitaine, founded an abbey in the isolated little valley of the Gellone, beside the isolated valley of the Hérault.

The suffix dau Desèrt was added because the area was completely stripped through over grazing by sheep, with every bit of vegetation being used for animal feed or heating. This practice endured until the 20th century, and resulted in an exodus of the local population.

For a short time, during the French Revolution, the village was named Verdus-le-Désert.

GR Hiking in St-Guilhem-le-Désert


• GPS: 43.734010, 3.549017

St-Guilhem-le-Désert is in an excellent hiking location. Sitting beside the beautiful Hérault river gorges, there are two GR (Grande Randonnée) hiking trails that pass through the village, as well as other good hiking trails in the surrounding mountains.

The GR653 through St-Guilhem-le-Désert is a part of the GR65 trail system, and a part of Chemin de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle. This is part of the centuries old Pilgrims Way leading to Santiago de Compostella in Spain. This part of the trail originated in Arles and passed through Montpellier to arrive here. To the west, the GR653 goes to the town of Castres, about 150 km away.

The GR74 hiking trail through St-Guilhem-le-Désert goes north through the mountains as far as St Maurice-Navacelles (18 km) and joins the GR7 trail to cross though the Navacelles Cirque.

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