St-Roman-de-Codières is a very tiny little village tucked into the forested hills in the southeastern edge of the Cévennes. It's only 10 km into the hills from the village of Sumène, but the road is narrow and very twisty, so people who go to St-Roman-de-Codières want to go there.
During the summer, St-Roman-de-Codières has a Country Market every Saturday that's very popular. After our drive up the very narrow and isolated road through the forest we expected to arrive at a deserted hamlet, and instead we found a cloud of cars with the most imaginative parking solutions.
The village has a very picturesque little church sitting on its own, and then a tight little cluster of less than a dozen houses tucked up against a tall, square tower.
Country Market (Marché Rural)
The Country Market takes place every Saturday during July and August, roughly from 9h-14h. The village square is full of market stands, some with artisanal goods, such as pottery, woven clothes or carved wooden items, but many have locally produced things to eat of a wide variety and of amazing quality.
We had a meal of a deep-dish pie containing potatoes, spinach, leeks, and "other wild vegetables", with absolutely everything gathered that morning from the nearby fields or their garden. Although from a market stand, the meal was served on real household dishes. After eating, diners are expected to wash their own dish in the fountain (dishwashing soap provided) and stack them for further use.
Part of the square has a few rows of wooden picnic tables with benches, but diners can sit wherever they want.
A small music group provides constant live music, and other individual musicians provide ad-hoc entertainment, as much for their own enjoyment as for the visitors.
• GPS: 44.002950, 3.778574
St-Roman-de-Codières sits in an area of forested hills and there are some local hiking trails (Petites Randonées) marked with the bright yellow signs. It's pretty rugged out here and some of the trails can have a lot of altitude change.
We hiked just over a kilometer out along the little road north of town to a menhir (standing stone). Other hiking trails are marked from that point, and there's a hike through the hills to visit a group of other menhirs.
This minuscule village actually has a café, the Café de la Tour, open every day during July and August. The café is located up a flight of steps at the tower, definitely not wheelchair accessible.
On Fridays the café is getting in supplies and so serves food only on request, but serves drinks as normal. On Saturdays the café is set up on the main square, Place du Marché, along with the other food stands.
Transportation Saint Roman-de-Codières
Department 30, Gard Buses
- See Beyond's Gard Department Bus Schedules for Gard bus-lines maps and bus-line schedules (Horaires).
Maps (Plans) for the Gard bus lines are on the www.edgard.fr website, with a flash webpage for each of five zones around Nîmes (www.edgard-transport.fr/plan/?rub_code=5).
Schedules for the Gard bus lines are available via the www.edgard.fr website horaires page (www.edgard-transport.fr/horaires/?rub_code=23).